Alright, gather ’round, culture enthusiasts and curious travelers!
Helsinki has been calling my name for ages, and finally, last week, I took the plunge. If you’re like me and prefer sunny weather over endless gray skies, summer is the best time to visit. Living in London, I’m no stranger to short, gloom-filled days between October and March, so I savored Helsinki’s bright summer charm.
One of the first things that struck me about Helsinki was how utterly tranquil it is. Yes, I know I visited in August, and perhaps all the Finns scarper off to their summer cottages then, but I got the distinct impression this wasn’t just a seasonal thing. Objectively, it’s a city with a low population density, especially compared to London, which made strolling around feel like an absolute delight. The other thing I clocked straight away? Second-hand and vintage shops everywhere. But more on that later…
I’m not about to bore you with the usual tourist guff. Instead, I’m giving you the inside track on the places I wish someone had whispered in my ear before I went. Plus, I’ll even tell you which of the main museums to swerve and why (you’re welcome!).
Right then, three quirky and free museums that are worth visiting:
Amos Anderson’s Home: A Publisher’s Paradise
Tucked right in the city centre, this was the home of Amos Anderson, Finland’s influential newspaper publisher back in the day. It’s been lovingly restored to its 1920s splendour. Picture this: gorgeous rooms, art everywhere, and the most charming cage lift.
Anderson (1878–1961) was a major art patron. He didn’t pretend to be an expert – he just bought what he fancied, whether it was landscapes or biblical scenes. What’s even cooler is that he supported struggling artists simply because he could. Besides the apartment, there’s a chapel upstairs that’s worth a gander.
Amos Andersons Hem, Yrjönkatu 27, 5th floor, 00100 Helsinki
Opening hours: Wednesdays 4 – 8 pm, Saturdays 11 am – 5 pm
The Kirpilä Art Collection: A Rheumatologist’s Retreat
This gem is perched on the top floor of a functionalist building in Töölö. It was the home of Juhani Kirpilä (1931–1988), a rheumatologist, and his partner, Karl Rosenqvist, an antiques dealer. Kirpilä was another passionate art collector who wanted his collection to be enjoyed by everyone after his death. He left behind 543 artworks, mostly by Finnish artists. Word has it none of the male nudes he collected are currently on display – fingers crossed that changes!
Because it’s in a private building, they keep it hush-hush, so it feels like a real discovery.
The Kirpilä Art Collection, Pohjoinen Hesperiankatu 7 (6th floor), 00260 Helsinki
Opening hours: Wednesdays 2 pm–6 pm, Sundays 12 pm–4 pm.
The Worker Housing Museum: A Step Back in Time
This museum is made up of preserved wooden houses from the early 1900s. Built for the city’s employees in 1909, these nine “stove rooms” show how ordinary Helsinki folk lived in different eras. They had running water, ventilated pantries, and kitchen ranges, but no bathrooms – just a communal sauna in the back yard!
The Worker Housing Museum, Kirstinkuja 4, 00510 Helsinki
Opening hours: Wednesday – Sunday 11am – 5 pm
Oodi: Not Your Average Library!
Helsinki boasts what might just be the world’s most gorgeous library, and I was obsessed with exploring it. Oodi isn’t just a library; it’s a “living meeting place.” Think group rooms, workstations, music studios, game rooms, a cinema, a chess lounge, and, of course, reading rooms! They’ve even got sewing machines and 3D printers! Plus, there are two cafes where you can grab a cuppa and read in style, either inside or on the balcony with its killer city views.
Helsinki Central Library Oodi, Töölönlahdenkatu 4, 00100 Helsinki
Opening hours: Monday – Friday 8 am – 9 pm, Saturday – Sunday 10 am – 8 pm
My hot take on the main museums
Entry to most Helsinki museums will set you back 20 euros, or 12 if you qualify for a concession. The exception is the City Museum, which is free and great for a quick visit and a sit-down in the large ground-floor lounge or even outdoors.
I popped into two modern art museums: Kiasma and HAM Helsinki. At Kiasma, I was more wowed by the building itself than the art inside. It was mostly conceptual stuff, which isn’t usually my cup of tea, and frankly, it wasn’t even good conceptual stuff. Unless you’re dying to watch a video of someone getting sprayed in the face with water, give it a miss. Just pop into the museum shop for some goodies and admire the architecture from the lobby. HAM has rotating exhibits, so check what’s on before you go. There was a tiny Tove Jansson exhibit that I enjoyed, and a few exhibits from the current biennial that were mostly forgettable. In my humble opinion, it’s not worth the money, especially if you live in a city like London where you’re spoiled for art choices.
Now, the two places I do recommend shelling out for:
- Architecture and Design Museum: If you’re a design geek like me, this place is heaven. It showcases the history of Finnish design from the late 19th century to the present day. You’ll see everything from furniture and textiles to fashion and industrial design. It’s a great way to understand the importance of design in Finnish culture.
- Ateneum: This is your go-to for Finnish art history. The collection is comprehensive, taking you from the 18th century to the 1950s. You’ll find works by iconic Finnish artists like Akseli Gallen-Kallela and Helene Schjerfbeck. The building itself is beautiful, and the exhibitions are well-curated. It’s a must-see for anyone interested in Finnish culture. Allow at least 2-3 hours to properly explore it.
Conclusion: Helsinki’s Cultural Hug
Helsinki’s cultural scene is like a warm hug – quirky, welcoming, and full of unexpected delights. From art-filled apartments to innovative libraries, there’s something to spark everyone’s curiosity. It’s a city that encourages you to slow down, explore, and appreciate the beauty in the everyday.
But wait, there’s more to Helsinki than just culture! In the next post, I’m diving headfirst into the city’s incredible vintage and second-hand shopping scene. Get ready for some serious retail therapy, Helsinki style!
