Everyone knows Tokyo for its bright lights and bustling cityscapes, but beyond the well-trodden tourist paths lies a quieter, more intimate side of the city, brimming with unexpected discoveries. On my recent first-time trip to Japan, I ventured away from the main attractions and stumbled upon some truly unique places, especially for those of us with an artistic eye. Come along with me as I share some of my favorite finds! 

Beyond the Crowds: Unveiling Tokyo’s Visual Delights

Forget the tourist traps – let’s dive into some lesser-known spots that offer a richer, more authentic experience of Tokyo:

Views of Sarah hamilton's house at 49 Peckarmans Wood, Dulwich Open House 2018

Ichigaya Letterpress Factory: While everyone flocks to the Yayoi Kusama Museum (and rightly so – book in advance!), just a short distance away is the Ichigaya Letterpress Factory. Housed in an interesting building, this place is a tactile delight. You can get hands-on with letterpress techniques, explore temporary exhibitions, and browse a beautiful stationery shop. It’s a haven for paper lovers and design enthusiasts.

Views of Sarah hamilton's house at 49 Peckarmans Wood, Dulwich Open House 2018
Views of Sarah hamilton's house at 49 Peckarmans Wood, Dulwich Open House 2018

Natsume Soseki Memorial Museum: Escape the city bustle at this peaceful museum dedicated to Natsume Soseki, the author of the Japanese classic “I Am a Cat.” The modernist building is an attraction in itself, nestled in a quiet neighborhood. You can see a reproduction of Soseki’s study, wander the tranquil grounds, and then treat yourself to excellent coffee and homemade cakes in their cute cafe.

Map of 49 Peckarmans Wood, Dulwich Open House 2018

Yanaka Cemetery and Environs: Forget the overcrowded Yanaka Ginza. Start your exploration at the Yanaka Cemetery and then get lost in the maze of winding streets surrounding it. This area is a treasure trove of hidden gems: cat-themed shrines, tiny shops specialising in incense or a single type of cake, and even surprisingly interesting public toilets! It’s a reminder that beauty and intrigue can be found in the most unexpected places. (See also: the charming Nezu Shrine)

Map of 49 Peckarmans Wood, Dulwich Open House 2018

Bandai Museum: Tucked away in the offices of toy giant Bandai, this museum is a playful diversion. You’ll find a fascinating collection of toys, including those iconic capsule toys (gashapon) that dispense surprises all over Japan. And, oddly enough, a mini Edison museum! Don’t miss the chance to snap a photo with the life-size Godzilla figure outside – a much less crowded alternative to the Godzilla head in the city center!

Map of 49 Peckarmans Wood, Dulwich Open House 2018

A Paper Lover’s Paradise: Unearthing Tokyo’s Art Supply Treasures

One of my main goals in Tokyo was to seek out the exquisite Japanese papers and art supplies that are often so expensive back home. I wasn’t disappointed! Here are a few of the stores that captured my heart (and a chunk of my travel budget):

Map of 49 Peckarmans Wood, Dulwich Open House 2018

Itoya: This multi-story stationery mecca is a must-visit. I spent ages browsing the endless selection of chiyogami papers, eventually leaving with a stack of vibrant patterns.
Takeo Paper / Mihoncho Honten: Another temple to paper, this is a beautifully designed showroom that celebrates the art of paper making. I was drawn to the colors and textures and ended up buying two plain notepads in shades of lilacs and greens, along with a hand-stitched sketchbook.

Map of 49 Peckarmans Wood, Dulwich Open House 2018

Pigment Tokyo: Prepare to be amazed. Pigment is not just a store; it’s an experience. Dedicated to the world of color, this beautifully designed space showcases an incredible range of pigments, brushes, and papers. I splurged on Rakusui paper in ten different colors – a true feast for the eyes.

Map of 49 Peckarmans Wood, Dulwich Open House 2018

Yamagataya Kamiten: Don’t be fooled by the unassuming exterior – this small store is an Aladdin’s cave of traditional Japanese papers, some of which can be seen below. The selection is staggering, and I found it hard to tear myself away from the delicate textures and subtle patterns.
Tools Ochanomizu: Another little store that turns out to be really interesting once you go in. They specialise in drawing supplies, with a strong selection of calligraphy pens, fountain pens, and a wide variety of markers. I got a couple of watercolour markers and an exquisitely thin fineliner.
Houkendo: Discovered on my last day, Houkendo is a calligraphy shop with a stunning array of cotton papers, brushes, and inks. Restraint was key here (my bags were already full!), but I couldn’t resist two metallic inks.

Map of 49 Peckarmans Wood, Dulwich Open House 2018

Sekaido Shinjuku: last but not least, this massive, supermarket-style art supply store has everything an artist could dream of. I made two visits and left with a box of Kuretake watercolours and a selection of Holbein gouache tubes in pastel and metallic colours to add to my collection, plus a right-angle ruler and a very pleasing mechanical eraser. Needless to say, I could have bought a lot more!

Map of 49 Peckarmans Wood, Dulwich Open House 2018

Tokyo is a city that rewards curiosity. By venturing off the beaten path, I discovered hidden pockets of creativity and inspiration, from the quiet beauty of the Natsume Soseki Memorial Museum to the vibrant chaos of Sekaido Shinjuku. Whether you’re an artist seeking new materials or a traveler looking for an authentic experience, Tokyo has something to offer everyone who dares to explore beyond the surface.

Map of 49 Peckarmans Wood, Dulwich Open House 2018

The lovely Sampota Cafe in Yanaka

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Gabriela Szulman
ARTIST & MAKER
My work is often humorous and whimsical – unless my romantic side takes over and then we enter into a fairy-tale territory of old-fashioned script, pages of books and music scores populated by chivalrous gentlemen, glamorous ladies, butterflies and rabbits.

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LEARN WITH ME
Would you like to explore your creative side? I use the wonderful techniques of decoupage and collage in much of my work, and now I can teach you how to create your very own masterpieces!

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